One Giant Leap

September 13, 2010

What a beautiful day! It hit the low 70s before noon, and topped out about 78. The locals think it's unseasonably hot, but we feel as if we are finally getting a bit of summer!

South of Great Falls about 10 miles, near the town of Ulm, is what is believed to have been the longest buffalo jump in the country. The sandstone bluff is a mile long. It was used last in the 1800s. Lewis and Clark wrote about these jumps and while in the region saw huge herds and Lewis wrote of a "foul stench" coming from the direction of the jump.

Buffalo jumps were a hunting device used by the Indians (now First Peoples) before they had horses. Essentially, the would locate a tall bluff with a natural slope toward the edge. You can see that the drop off is deceptive and looks as if it's just another rolling hill.

The elders of the tribe (and 13 tribes used this particular jump) would choose the exact portion of the cliff to use and the tribe would then move large stones to create a drive line, which would force the stampeding buffalo into a tight, narrowed group.

Young boys, aged 7-11, would be given wolfskins to wear and sent out beyond the approaching herd. Their job was to stalk the herd as if they were a wolf pack and begin herding them toward the jump.

Older boys, those that could run fastest, would position themselves closer to the drive lines and try to attract the attention of the head cow. Once she spotted them, she would begin to chase them...this is where the "fastest runners" comes into play. These boys would head toward the drop off, jumping onto a ledge below the top and squeezing against the bluff so that the buffalo would fall over them to the bottom.

The first buffalo to fall would be killed instantly, but later ones would be cushioned and need to be killed by arrows. After all of the meat was butchered, hides, bones and everything useable removed, all of the remaining bits would be burned so as to leave no trace to impede the next herd from being lured into that area.

Since this bluff was considered sacred, no fighting was allowed and tribes would wait their turn to use the jump.

Prairie dogs are essential to a vibrant prairie. On the top of the bluff is a huge, thriving prairie dog town. These guys are just fascinating to watch. Lots of scurrying around, always alert, lots of alarm-whistles, and once in awhile an "All Clear" call. We watched them for a long time. These two look as if they are kissing, which is one of the ways they greet each other.

This was a beautiful day...warm, sunny, a very light breeze, the smell of sweet grass and sage, and no sound except the prairie dogs and grasshoppers.